Devon Character Areas

View west from South West Coast Path of Hartland Point and Shipload Bay (AONB Copyright).

Contextual description

This Devon Character Area (DCA) comprises the south-western part of the North Devon coast, within Torridge District. It is bordered by the sea to the north and west, and by the county boundary with Cornwall to the south. To the east there is a gradual transition to the Bideford Bay Coast DCA and a more abrupt transition (marked by the prevalence of unimproved Culm grassland) to the Western Culm Plateau DCA. All of the landscape is within the North Devon Coast Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and the coastline is defined as part of the Hartland Heritage Coast.

Link National Character Areas and Constituent Landscape Character Types

Constituent LCTs: 1B Open coastal plateau, 3H Secluded valleys, 4D Coastal slopes and combes, 4H Cliffs and 4I Rocky foreshores.

This area falls within The Culm National Character Area (NCA 149).

Summary character description

On the Hartland Peninsula, complex geology, combined with centuries of pounding by the full force of the Atlantic waves, has produced some of the most dramatic seascapes and coastal scenery in Devon, with the contrasting sheltered northern coastline (between Hartland Point and Windbury), and the exposed western cliffs south of Hartland Point. The cliffs are high and rugged, with zig-zag faults and folds. Wave-cut platforms and spectacular coastal waterfalls are also distinctive features of this jagged, exposed and windswept coastline, with the profile of Lundy visible in the open seascape. Coastal heathland on the cliff tops produces vivid and changing colours for much of the year. Inland, the area contains an open and elevated plateau of agricultural land, which contrasts with the twisting, wooded combes that cut into the plateau at its coastal edge.

View east from the South West Coast Path near Hartland Quay towards Stoke, with the distinctive tower of The Church of St Nectan forming a prominent vertical feature on the open skyline.

Distinctive characteristics

• Folded and faulted strata of underlying carboniferous Culm rocks with twisted, zig-zag strata clearly visible in the cliffs.
• Erosion by the sea creating extensive wave-cut platforms and coastal waterfalls which contribute to the dramatic seascape.
• An undeveloped coast of rocky headlands and pebbly bays, many of which are inaccessible.
• The coastal hinterland comprises very gently rolling plateau land, incised by steep combes running down to the sea.
• Woodland (usually ancient and oak-dominated) is confined to the coastal combes where it is a distinctive feature, with occasional hedgerow trees and shelterbelts on the open plateau.
• Relatively poor soils, traditionally supporting pastoral agriculture.
• Fields irregularly shaped, and of varying sizes, divided by species-rich Devon hedges and wind-sculpted hedgerow trees. Remnant strip field systems are found around Milford Common and Hardisworthy.
• Extensive semi-natural habitats, including inaccessible rocky cliffs and shoreline, oak woodland and coastal heath, supporting a rich diversity of plants, insects, animals and birds.
• An ancient landscape, containing a nationally important Iron Age hillfort at Embury Beacon, numerous barrows on Bursdon Moor and Welsford Moor, medieval settlements and field patterns, ancient lanes, and distinctive square-towered churches.
• Other historic features include ancient wells, historic parkland (around Hartland Abbey), watermills and relics of former industry (e.g. limekilns and the remains of Hartland Quay).
• A dispersed settlement pattern of ancient farmsteads, hamlets and villages, including the larger settlements of Welcombe and Hartland.
• Settlement connected by an intricate network of lanes, with wide verges, high hedgebanks and small stone bridges at river crossing points. Black and white fingerposts at road junctions are distinctive features of the lanes.
• Prominent skyline buildings such as the tower of St Nectan's Church in Stoke (one of the highest in Devon) and Hartland Point radar dome stand out on the open plateau. Lundy Island is an iconic seascape feature in open coastal views.
• Great contrasts between the open coastal plateau with its long views and big skies, and the dramatic coastline with its enclosed, wooded combes.

Mixed agricultural land use of the coastal plateau, with sheep grazing and arable fields beyond. Lundy island appears shadow-like on the horizon.

Hartland village nestled on a sheltered slope within large open pastoral fields on the coastal plateau.

Special qualities and features

Outstanding scenic quality and seascapes within the North Devon Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and Heritage Coast.

A sense of remoteness, with levels of tranquillity and dark night skies across the area among the highest in Devon.

Extensive nature conservation designations including Marsland-Clovelly Coast Special Area of Conservation (also designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its outstanding geology and coastal habitats).

Concentrations of ancient oak woodland in the coastal combes, often with SSSI or County Wildlife Site designation; and Marsland Valley Local Nature Reserve.

The coastline adjoins the Hartland Point to Tintagel Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), valued for its range of regionally and nationally important habitats, and for its contribution to the connectivity of intertidal habitats along the North Devon and Cornwall coastline.

Regionally Important Geological Sites at Colpit Quarry, Hartland Quay and Embury Beacon.

Scheduled Monuments, including Embury Beacon and Windbury Head Camp Iron Age hillforts, and St Clare's well at Philham.

Listed buildings throughout the area, including farmhouses and outbuildings, bridges, mills, pubs, cottages and quays. Hartland Abbey and St Nectan's Church (in Stoke) are Grade I listed.

Contrast between the exposed coastal headlands and the atmospheric processes from the sea and the sense of enclosure within the deep incised wooded valleys further inland.

Conservation Area covering the cluster of listed buildings in Hartland.

Tall hedgebanks with a tunnel-like quality where the lanes descend into the combes. Locally distinct, wide verges supporting a range of flowers and insects.

A good network of lanes and public rights of way (including the South West Coast Path) providing recreational access, with common and/or open access land along much of the cliff tops.

Significant areas of land owned and managed by the National Trust (including the Welcombe estate and part of the Brownsham estate).

Forces for change and their landscape implications

Past and current

• Post-war intensification of agriculture, leading to field enlargement, hedgerow removal/damage and the spread of arable cultivation, leading to the loss of semi-natural habitats.
• Decline in small farms, and amalgamation and intensification into bigger enterprises leading to farm expansion on the plateau behind, impacting on the characteristically open, flat and undeveloped skylines (e.g. Beckland Farm and Blegberry Farm above Damehole Point).
• Farm diversification changing the traditional character of the landscape and adding new elements, such as holiday cottages. Some former agricultural buildings have been converted to holiday/residential accommodation.
• Continuing efforts required to manage open heathland, maritime grassland and archaeological sites, including through grazing, to reduce the encroachment of bracken, gorse and secondary woodland. Important views across the bay and to Lundy can be obscured by tall vegetation.
• Spread of invasive species and a decline in traditional management of woodlands.
• Popularity of the landscape for tourism and recreation, including users of the South West Coast Path. There is an associated increase in traffic levels on rural roads, demand for facilities such as car parking and signage, unauthorised camping, erosion and littering.
• The popularity of the cliffs for climbing, leading to cliff erosion and concerns relating to wildlife disturbance.
• Introduction of skyline features such as communications masts.
• Insensitive design of new housing developments, including a range of non-vernacular building styles (e.g. in Hartland).
• Views to developed seascapes across Bideford Bay, including Westward Ho!, Northam, the Saunton ridgeline and the moving turbines of Fullabrook wind farm; diluting the sense of remoteness associated with this landscape.
• Cumulative visual effect of both domestic turbines (e.g. the 20m turbine at Cheristow) and larger developments outside the DCA but visible from the coast- also impacting on remoteness and the open, rural skylines.
• Recent conifer planting and existing shelterbelts stand out in the open landscape, e.g. near Yapham Cross.
• Increased popularity and visitor pressure, impacting on the tranquil character and sense of remoteness and leading to the development of new visitor facilities including tourist accommodation and campsites.

Future

• Forthcoming changes to agricultural subsidies, including the new ELMs scheme which will pay landowners for the delivery of public goods and services, including for the restoration of nature, potentially affecting the management of landscape features and wildlife habitats such as hedgerows, coastal valley slope heaths and grasslands, and cliff-top pastures.
• Changes in seasonal weather patterns and the introduction of new species, pests and diseases due to climate change, potentially affecting agriculture and habitats such as woodland and heaths.
• Impacts of climate change on characteristic habitats and tree distribution (potentially increased growth rates, accelerating the spread of scrub and trees onto open coastal heath and heritage assets), including an increased prevalence of pests, pathogens and diseases.
• Ongoing climate change altering weather conditions and affecting growing seasons (potentially resulting in new crops becoming viable in the area), which could have an impact on landscape character, particularly on the open plateau.
• Change in woodland species composition as new pests/diseases spread (particularly phytopthora pathogens) and species intolerant of water level extremes die back.
• Individual hedgerow trees may become more susceptible to damage from the increasing frequency and magnitude of storm events.
• Higher sea level and storm frequency as a result of climate change leading to increased landslides and accelerated coastal erosion. The Shoreline Management Plan's policy stance is to continue allowing the coast to evolve naturally along much of its length.
• Coastal squeeze impacting on habitats such as the characteristic rocky foreshore and pockets of sandy beach. Cliff-top lengths of the South West Coast Path may also become at risk, along with archaeological and geomorphological features such as Windbury Head (already eroded) and the distinctive Chapman and Long Rocks.
• Footpath erosion on popular public rights of way and designated routes, including the future England Coast Path.
• Ongoing growth and demand for renewable energy sources, including biomass crops, solar farms, offshore and onshore wind farms, wave and tidal energy installations and domestic-scale renewables which could have a cumulative landscape impact.
• Future development around Hartland village, affecting the appearance and character of the settlement.
• Further growth in popularity of the area for recreation and tourism, eroding the landscape's high levels of tranquillity and leading to increased demand for facilities and accommodation (including farm conversions, caravan and camp sites, hotel developments, holiday cottages).
• Development pressure resulting from the popularity of the area as a place to live or own second homes.

Cliff edge and wave-cut platform at Welcombe Mouth. Cliff erosion is an ongoing threat along the coast.

Industrial-scale farm buildings stand out on the open plateau.

Landscape guidelines

Protect

• Protect the landscape's open vistas and sense of space, avoiding the location of new development and vertical structures on prominent skylines. Ensure that the medieval church tower at Stoke remains a prominent local landmark, including when viewed from the sea (e.g. by avoiding siting other vertical structures on the same skyline).
• Protect the area's high scenic quality, long stretches of undeveloped coast and the character of the landscape's expansive sea views (including to Lundy).
• Protect the landscape's high levels of tranquillity and dark night skies through the control and management of development, including highways.
• Protect the combes' characteristic sense of seclusion and remoteness, ensuring limited new development is contained within existing settlement limits and any new farm buildings are integrated into their landscape setting (e.g. through woodland planting).
• Protect sites designated for their biodiversity or cultural value, particularly the relatively rare coastal habitats and sites. Protect geological sites and provide appropriate management and interpretation where necessary.
• Protect historic and archaeological sites, including through management of scrub/vegetation (ideally through appropriate grazing levels), at Embury Beacon hillfort and other nationally important heritage assets.
• Protect the historic character of the area, encouraging the sensitive location of new farm buildings away from open skylines, respecting the local characteristic clustering of agricultural buildings within the landscape, and ensuring that any new development incorporates local vernacular building styles of whitewash, local stone and thatch (whilst seeking to incorporate sustainable and low carbon building construction and design).
• Protect the distinctive character of local lanes and hedgebanks, resisting highways improvements, lighting and intrusive signage.
• Protect and conserve locally distinctive black and white wooden fingerposts.

Manage

• Manage nationally important coastal habitats, including coastal heath and maritime grasslands, through supporting a continuation of extensive grazing at appropriate levels.
• Manage and extend areas of wet woodland and wet meadows through appropriate grazing and traditional land management regimes - both to enhance their wildlife value and functions in flood prevention.
• Manage and protect the landscape's network of hedgerows and characteristic dwarf hedgerow trees, replanting ageing or diseased specimens (with climate hardy species) to ensure the future survival of these characteristic features.
• Manage farmland, and sustain current agricultural use, keeping buildings, hedgerows and hedgebanks in good repair. Where farm diversification does occur, ensure it has minimal impact on the character of the landscape.
• Manage and enhance the combes' ancient oak woodlands through traditional techniques such as coppicing and a programme of invasive species removal. Control access by livestock, promoting natural regeneration to enhance longevity whilst using extensive grazing to promote the species diversity of woodland ground flora.
• Manage the landscape's popularity for recreation, encouraging the use of existing facilities and the South West Coast Path whilst providing sustainable transport options to reduce levels of traffic accessing this area.
• Manage access to the cliffs to reduce wildlife disturbance and erosion due to climbing.

Plan

• Plan for farm diversification and changes to agriculture as a result of market pressures (including Brexit and increased demand for domestic food production) and the new Environmental Land Management Schemes. New crops may also become viable as a result of climate change and the potential landscape impacts of these should be considered.
• Restore and develop interconnected nature recovery networks of coastal heath and cliff-top grassland (including Culm grassland) which extend inland, creating buffer zones between cliff communities and improved agricultural land.
• Plan for the impacts of a changing climate on the coastline, allowing natural processes to take place whilst considering how habitats, heritage/ geomorphological assets and the South West Coast Path can be expanded or relocated to account for coastal squeeze.
• Plan for the future of ancient/broadleaved woodlands (managing them to incorporate climate-hardy species) and other semi-natural habitats such as Culm grasslands and heath, particularly to account for habitat / species migration due to future climate change.
• Take a landscape-led response to the UK-wide policy drive for increased tree and woodland planting, implementing the Devon Local Nature Partnership's 'Right Place, Right Tree' principles to create a balance of climate-resilient native species appropriate to the local landscape.
• There is already some new woodland planting along the B3248 near Hescott Farm. Avoid further planting in open areas with characteristic long views out to sea and to Lundy.
• Provide design guidance on new developments, respecting traditional settlement form, character and local vernacular and incorporating sustainable design.
• New development should include green infrastructure links to contribute to recreation, wildlife and nature recovery networks.
• Plan for future demand for tourism related development and infrastructure (particularly in popular locations with access to the Coast Path). Develop a transport strategy to reduce tourism-related traffic on the rural roads and encourage active travel.
• Ensure plans for future energy and telecoms infrastructure consider landscape and visual effects (including cumulative effects) so that these can be sited in appropriate locations and their impacts mitigated through careful design.

DCA 31 Hartland Peninsula (PDF) [1MB]